Overview

Many In-vitro studies have shown the many advantageous properties of grape seed oil. Berries derived from Vitis vinifera L. ssp sativa grapes are of significant interest globally due to their many benefits in their raw, dried, or processed forms. Their uses are numerous, ranging from food purposes to pharmaceutical and cosmetic uses.

This, therefore, makes them of high economic significance. Grape seed oil contains fatty acids, vitamins, and many phenolic compounds. Some health benefits of grape seed oil have been identified; they include: cardioprotective effects and antimicrobial and anticancer properties - these have been attributed to their resveratrol, quercetin, carotenoids, phytosterols, tocopherol, and linolenic acid content.¹

The oil content of grape seeds is extracted through mechanical methods such as cold pressing, whereby oil is extracted without chemicals or heat, thereby protecting the health-benefiting components of the oil produced. This method also ensures safer oils are made without chemical residues. The other method that can be adopted is the use of organic solvents.¹

It is essential that more studies be done on extraction technologies to identify improved extraction methods that are cheaper, more efficient, and have a minimal environmental impact. The most popular products are made from grape seed powder, seed extracts, and grape seed oil (GSO). Records show that GSO has been a part of the Italian, French, and German societies since the early 1930s. Studies have shown that GSO is essential to reduce wastage and encourage reuse in wineries.²

Economic significance of grapes

Globally, about 67 million metric tons of Grapes are produced and traded as a fruit crop. Turkey has a long history of grape production as far back as 4000 BC- this is evident in many archaeological findings. This has been attributed to its ecological location and climate, which is very suitable for growing grapes.

Other areas where grapes are popularly produced are Spain, France, Italy, the United States of America, and China. Grape seed comprises about ten to seventeen per cent oil content. The composition of the oil includes linoleic acid between 72 to 76%, Oleic acids, linolenic acid traces, and palmitoleic, to name a few.

Other components are carbohydrates, protein, crude fibre, ash, polyphenols, and other inorganic materials. Grape seed oil is a by-product of wineries; therefore, oil extraction has been found to reduce the environmental burden and provide value-adding products.^3-4

The uses of grape seed oil are numerous. They are popularly used for their edible benefits, such as in salad dressings, flavouring oils, baking, and marinades. In the cosmetic industry, grape seed oils are also popular in sunburn repair lotions, skin hygiene products, hair products, hand creams and lip moisturisers. This oil has also been used in phytomedicines to reduce blood cholesterol levels. The health-benefiting components include vitamin E, vitamin C, and beta carotene, as well as phenolic compounds and antioxidants.³

Grape seed oil in skin hydration

In recent times, particularly within the last few decades, cosmetic formulators have prioritised using natural remedies to treat skin and certain dermatological conditions. Many cosmetic companies aim to utilise products that are of natural origins, such as honey, herbs, and oils from plants, in the production of body lotions, hair treatment lotions and creams in skin care to provide soothing, softening of the skin as well as reducing transepidermal water loss.

These are used in many modern treatments for dermatological disorders such as phototoxicity, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and inflammation. A central selling point of these alternative ingredients is that components of natural origins are less likely to cause allergic reactions or irritations of the skin. It is noteworthy, however, that this has been a part of many indigenous cultures for centuries.

In the 14th century, the king of Castile and Leon, Ferdinand IV, kept the skin benefits of grape seed oil application a secret for as long as he could, having gotten the information from an Arab doctor. He even named it ‘Royal oil’. That was the origin of the knowledge of its vast desirable benefits.

Also, grapes were a component of their diet in ancient Egypt (more than 6000 years ago). Records from European philosophers show studies and the use of grapevine saps in treating many skin conditions; among other uses of grapes, including liver and kidney diseases, cholera, and smallpox, 

GSO is famous for its skin moisturising effects. It is a preferred oil in skincare because it is light and well absorbed into the skin without leaving any residue like most other oils in skincare. Additionally, people with sensitive skin are less likely to experience any allergies from its application. GSO has also been found to induce the regeneration of skin cells and stimulate skin tissue.⁵

Due to advancement in age, the skin experiences many physical changes, which manifest as dehydration, wrinkles, or fine lines. The skin has three individual layers, which not only protect the internal organs but also regulate the temperature of the human body and control hydration. The skin becomes less hydrated in older people.

A condition otherwise called xerosis may be due to a decrease in lipids content in the stratum corneum or a reduction in activities of the sebaceous or sweat glands. Dry skin manifests as cracks, peeling, inflammations and skin infections. Grape seed oils have been used for centuries to reverse these conditions.

Additionally, the skin ageing process can be delayed because it helps retain the skin's elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, and it treats infections due to skin dryness. Skin hydration is measured by the level of surface water available to the skin and the level of trans-epidermal water loss. An effective moisturiser is required to reduce skin dehydration by reducing skin friction, softening skin, and filling the skin cracks.

Indigenous populations in tropical regions have used essential oils and plant oil extracts for skin hydration for centuries because of their evident ability to improve the skin's barrier function and help inhibit moisture loss from the skin.

These oils have been incorporated into many cosmetological products, especially because natural ingredients are significantly safer than their synthetic counterparts.

Other uses of grape seed oil in skincare

In cosmetology, grape seed oil has shown many more favourable benefits. These include

1. The desirability for its skin healing and tightening properties due to its ability to remove free radicals from the body and its astringent quality and ability to firm the skin. This is why many cosmetic industries have this product as the main component of their skin-firming products especially among individuals with oily skin. Additionally, studies have shown that grape seed oil helps speed up wound healing in both human and animal skins and they even can reduce scarring after wound healing.
2. Popularity for its acne-fighting properties from its antioxidant properties, which can reduce pore clogging, as well as the anti-inflammatory properties that reduce the manifestation of acne breakouts.
3. Black circles around the eye concern many people with their facial skin. The cause of this dark and dull colouration around the eye has been attributed to excessive sun exposure, dehydration, and too much alcohol consumption. Consistent application of grape seed oils has been shown to significantly improve the appearance of dark circles around the eye of many people. 
4. The antioxidant properties of GSO have also been found to provide anti-ageing properties. Skin ageing manifesting through fine lines and wrinkles has been shown to be due to excessive exposure to sunlight and environmental pollutants; GSO has been found to help reduce the appearance of these. Collagen and elastin are sustained in the skin by application while providing the skin with sufficient moisture needed and preventing loss of hydration. Moreso, ingesting the oil has also been found to help scavenge and remove free radicals from the body. This also confers some degree of skin protection against Uitra-violet B rays radiation.⁵

Factors influencing the efficacy of grape seed oil in skincare

GSO is made up of 3.95-16.6% essential oil. The oil content extracted is markedly influenced by the technique used in their extraction, the solvent type, as well as the conditions of operation. These factors have influence on the concentration of the skin-benefiting contents. Such include:

• linoleic acid (ranging between 65 to 72%)
• stearic acid (between 8.5 to 15%)
• oleic acid (between 12-23%)
• palmitic acid (between 4 to 11%)

Linoleic acid is highly available in epidermal phospholipids and is important in the barrier functions of the skin because it is incorporated in the ceramides- a major component of intercellular lipids.⁶

Summary

Grape seed oil has numerous advantages due to its rich composition of fatty acids, vitamins, and phenolic compounds. The benefits attributed to grape seed oil for overall well-being include its cardioprotective, antimicrobial, and skin-benefiting effects.

Grape seed oil is popular in skin care because it has the ability to moisturise the skin and leave it hydrated. This fact has been known to many cultures in the tropical region for centuries dating back to ancient civilizations. Modern applications include its use in the treatment of dermatological conditions and promotion of skin health by supporting skin regeneration and firming, acne treatment and reduction of the appearance of skin ageing such as wrinkles and fine lines. They are considered safe and effective in skincare formulations in comparison to synthetic alternatives.