Introduction

Ginkgo or Ginkgo biloba (scientific name) is known as a “living fossil” because it is one of the oldest living species of trees on our planet (Kew Gardens). The ginkgo tree is the sole survivor of the asteroid crash that extinguished the dinosaurs and other life forms on Earth 66 million years ago! Its origins date back much earlier than the dinosaurs, more than 200 million years ago (Kew Gardens). Ginkgo is native to China where the earliest records of the ancient tree were found in 13th and 14th-century Chinese literature.¹ The seeds of ginkgo were majorly used in traditional Chinese medicine and Eastern cuisine, whereas the extracts from its leaves are used in dietary supplements in the West.¹ Ginkgo nuts were traditionally prescribed to members of the royal court for senility, and other uses were for asthma, bronchitis, kidney and bladder disorders (NCCIH). Nowadays, dietary supplements containing ginkgo leaf extract are used for many conditions like dementia, anxiety, eye problems, and others, but there has been no conclusive evidence on the beneficial effects of taking these supplements for any health conditions (NCCIH). Ginkgo is also being used in skincare products after a scientific study in 2019 discovered that the seed coats and immature seeds of ginkgo exhibited antibacterial activity against bacteria that cause skin infections.² This article focuses on the benefits of using Ginkgo biloba in skincare products through its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing properties to improve skin hydration, texture and tone. 

Ginkgo biloba

Ginkgo biloba contains bioactive compounds called flavonoids and terpenoids, known for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial properties. Flavonoids are well-known plant chemicals that create the vibrant colours seen in fruits, flowers, and vegetables. Ginkgo flavone glycosides like ginkgetin, bilobetin, and sciadopitysin are the types of flavonoids found in ginkgo.^3,4 Terpenoids are chemicals that are found in all organisms and have been found to improve blood circulation by reducing the stickiness of platelets and dilating blood vessels. Terpene lactones like ginkgolides, diterpenes, and bilobalides are the types of terpenoids found in ginkgo.^3,4 Extracts of Ginkgo biloba are usually used in topical creams for cosmetic application. 

Antioxidant properties

Oxidative stress in the body is caused by an excess of free radicals (reactive oxygen species or ROS) in the body which can damage cell membranes, DNA and other components of the cell. Free radicals are harmful when their unstable chemical structure causes them to attack and damage other stable molecules in the cell (Harvard Health). Oxidative stress has been identified to play a role in many health conditions like cancer, cardiovascular disease, kidney disease, respiratory disease, and neurological diseases (Cleveland Clinic). Antioxidants are chemicals that complement free radicals by “switching off” or neutralizing their activity and regulating the effect of free radicals in our body (Harvard Health). Antioxidants have been found to prevent and repair UV ray damage and reduce the risk of carcinogenesis, collagen degradation in skin ageing, and psoriasis.⁵ The antioxidants in Ginkgo biloba (flavonoids, terpene lactones and polyphenols) scavenge and neutralize free radicals thereby reducing oxidative stress and repairing damaged skin.^6,7

Anti-inflammatory activity

Inflammation is a normal protective response by the body’s immune system in response to foreign objects, illness or injury. Dermatitis is a common skin disease which induces inflammation (swelling and irritation of the skin). The most common types of skin inflammation diseases are acne, eczema, and psoriasis. 

• Acne occurs when the hair follicles in your skin are clogged with oil and dead skin cells. Skin inflammation can also lead to bacterial skin infections, commonly seen in the form of pimples and cysts under the skin. 
• Eczema, also called atopic dermatitis, is a condition where dry and itchy skin causes rashes on the infected parts of the body due to scratching or rubbing the skin. It usually occurs in people prone to allergies like asthma or hay fever, which means they are sensitive to irritants in the environment (allergens) like bacteria. This causes inflammation in the affected areas that appear as symptoms (Cleveland Clinic). 
• Psoriasis is a chronic skin condition where rashes appear on the skin with itchy, scaly patches on the knees, elbows, trunk, and scalp. It is caused by an immune system dysfunction where skin cells grow more rapidly than normal causing dry, scaly patches to appear on the body. One of the most common triggers for psoriasis is skin infections.  

Ginkgo seeds showed antimicrobial activity against three common skin bacteria C. acnes, S. aureus, and S. pyogenes by inhibiting their growth through the effects of ginkgolic acid C15:1.² Ginkgo leaves have also shown antibacterial activity against many bacteria like E. coli and S. enterica.² Ginkgo biloba has also shown anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects against acne, eczema, and psoriasis by reducing the level of inflammatory protein molecules (IL-8 and TNF-α cytokines), sebum (oil) production and inhibiting epidermal skin growth in psoriasis.^2,8 

Anti-ageing effects

Skin ageing is a natural process that occurs as we grow older. The outermost skin layer called the epidermis becomes thinner, paler and more translucent. Wrinkles, fine lines, age spots or pigmentation, and saggy skin are common signs of skin ageing. Your skin also produces less oil and fat in the deeper layers, which makes the skin more dry, itchy, and susceptible to skin injury as well as changes in body temperature. Skin ageing is affected by exposure to UV rays which promote free radical production and increase oxidative stress. Oxidative stress is responsible for fine lines, dry and dull complexion, and wrinkles in skin ageing.⁹

Ginkgolide A and bilobalide were found to boost collagen production, a vital process in skin growth, elasticity, and repair, which supports the use of active compounds of Ginkgo biloba in cosmetics for its anti-ageing effects.¹⁰ Ginkgo biloba leaf extracts were also found to protect skin cells by stimulating antioxidant activity and reducing wrinkle formation.⁹

Improved skin hydration

A side effect of skin ageing is the loss of hydration in the skin. This can increase your risk of skin injuries and wound healing may be 4 times slower than normal (Medline Plus). So it is important to maintain skin hydration and keep it moist with lotions and moisturisers. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of Ginkgo biloba improve skin hydration and elasticity, promote wound repair and tissue regeneration, and reduce wrinkles.⁷

Enhanced skin barrier function

The skin barrier is part of the outermost layer of skin called the stratum corneum and is made up of dead cells (corneocytes), proteins like keratin and lipids (ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol) between the corneocytes. Its main function is to protect the skin from foreign chemicals or infectious bacteria and maintain water retention in the skin. Damage to the skin barrier can be caused by skin ageing or skin conditions like acne, eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis. Ginkgo biloba extracts have shown protective effects against skin barrier damage through UV radiation like loss of hydration, or redness of the skin.¹¹

Correcting uneven skin tone

Hyperpigmentation is when your skin develops patches or spots that are darker than your natural skin colour. They are also called sun spots, age spots, or liver spots. This is due to an excess of pigment (melanin) produced by damaged or unhealthy skin cells. Hyperpigmentation can be caused by other medical conditions like thyroid disorders, melasma, and adrenal disorders, and also by sun damage or skin injuries like acne. This can cause your skin to have an uneven skin tone and even though it is not painful or itchy, it can people self-conscious of their appearance. Sun damage increases the level of free radicals and skin injuries like acne can promote inflammation of the skin. Ginkgo biloba was found to prevent the death of melanin-producing skin cells (melanocytes) by inhibiting the amount of ROS and enhancing antioxidant activity through ginkgolides and bilobalides under oxidative stress, thus reducing hyperpigmentation and improving skin complexion.^8,12 

Practical applications in skincare products

The standardised extract of Ginkgo biloba (EGb 761) contains 24% flavonoid glycosides, 6% terpenoids, and less than 5 ppm (parts per million) of ginkgolic acid.^3,13 It is used in small concentrations for skincare products like topical creams, serums, masks, and eye creams. The use of five Ginkgo biloba leaf-derived ingredients (leaf extract, leaf, leaf cell extract, leaf powder, and leaf water) was assessed to be safe according to the current practices of use and concentration in skincare products.¹³ 

Summary

Ginkgo biloba is an ancient tree species, which has been studied for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects in various medical conditions. More recently, it has been suggested to provide these benefits for skin health through its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing properties which are said to improve skin hydration, skin barrier function, and correct uneven skin tone to enhance overall skin complexion. Ginkgo biloba is widely used in small concentrations in a variety of skincare products like topical creams, serums, masks, and eye creams.