You might be familiar with retinol, but have you heard of bakuchiol? This plant-derived component has begun attracting attention in the skincare world, because of its similar benefits to retinol. 

Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is used in skincare for its anti-microbial and collagen-promoting properties, but it might be too harsh for some people’s skin.¹ Bakuchiol is an emerging alternative with anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties, which may work better for sensitive skin.²

But is bakuchiol truly as effective as retinol? This article will dive into explaining retinol and bakuchiol, their efficiency, and any considerations about them. So keep reading to determine which might be better for you!

Understanding retinol

What is retinol?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, which is used by the cosmetic industry for different skin care purposes. The main applications of the compound in cosmetics include treating acne, spots and scars, and combating ageing signs. Retinol can be obtained over the counter or with a medical prescription, usually with a concentration between 0.0015% and 0.3%.^1,3 Please be aware that it needs to be applied topically (in the form of creams, lotions or serums) for several weeks or even months before noticing results.

Anti-ageing effects

One of the first signs of ageing is the appearance of wrinkles. As you age, your skin loses elasticity and collagen, retains less moisture, and becomes thinner, giving way to the appearance of fine lines. Retinol stimulates cell turnover (proliferation), which strengthens the skin barrier and helps it maintain its moisture. Moreover, this component slows down the breakdown of collagen, and this improves the occurrence of wrinkles and keeps the skin elastic.^1,3

Acne treatment

Retinol is one of the main treatments for acne. This is because it has anti-comedogenic effects, meaning it doesn’t clog pores. It works by decreasing sebum production in the skin, and it also accelerates its removal from sebaceous glands. In addition, retinol accelerates the expulsion of mature comedones and suppresses the formation of new ones.^1,3

Improvement of skin texture and tone

Acne scars, hyperpigmentation and textured skin caused by conditions like psoriasis or skin keratosis can also be treated with topical retinol. The vitamin A derivative can reduce the inflammation and redness that usually comes with breakouts. Furthermore, this component can reduce skin pigmentation by 60% and it evenly distributes melanin in the epidermis.¹ However, sunlight can darken spots, decreasing the effect of the retinol treatment, so it is advised to wear sunscreen whilst using retinol to prevent this from happening.

Side effects and precautions

Although it’s clear retinol has many benefits for the skin, sometimes it can produce some temporal side effects, like:

• Skin irritation
• Peeling of the skin
• Dryness
• Erythema
• Itching³ 

Additionally, if someone is pregnant or planning on becoming pregnant, medical experts advise against using retinol. This is because it could cause abnormal development of the embryo. What’s more, whilst vitamin A is part of breast milk, it is unknown what effect retinoids (the category which encompasses natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives, including retinol) could have on the baby.³ 

Another precaution to be aware of when using retinol is sensitivity to sunlight. When utilising retinoids, the outer layer of the skin (stratum corneum) loses thickness, which allows the sunlight to penetrate faster into the skin, leading to faster sunburns. That’s why individuals should always use sun protection when applying retinol, especially during the summer.⁴

Exploring bakuchiol

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a botanical extract derived from the Psoralea corylifolia plant seeds. It has been used in Chinese and Indian medicine since ancient times, and it has recently been introduced in the cosmetology industry as a gentler alternative to retinol. This compound is used in skin care due to its anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-bacterial properties.²

Antioxidant properties

Oxidative stress appears to play a role in the appearance of acne and contributes to the ageing process. ^5,6 That’s why its antioxidative properties make it a good product to use in skin care. Its potent antioxidant activity also increases cell turnover, and this strengthens the skin.²

Anti-inflammatory effects

Bakuchiol exerts an anti-inflammatory effect by reducing the expression of inflammatory mediators (agents that induce inflammation).² Some of these mediators can reduce collagen production, so this agent can also slow ageing through its anti-inflammatory responses.⁶  If you have acne, bakuchiol could reduce the swelling that comes with the breakout.

Anti-ageing properties

Both oxidative stress and inflammation negatively impact skin regeneration, however, bakuchiol appears to support this process and facilitates skin repair, which normally decreases with age. This compound can also help deter skin ageing by modulating some genes that are involved in generating collagen, and in maintaining skin barrier function.² 

Side effects and considerations

Bakuchiol is stable in sunlight, can be combined with other products, and is well-tolerated by different types of skin. However, those with sensitive skin may still experience mild side effects like:

• Redness
• Skin peeling
• Toxicity when combined with Glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) found in liquorice

Whilst this is not a photosensitive product, it is still recommended to use sunscreen when applying bakuchiol, to prevent UV radiation damage.

The effect it might have on pregnant people still needs to be studied, so if this is your situation you should discuss with a medical professional whether you should use bakuchiol. Moreover, so far the majority of studies have been done in vitro, so it’s a bit difficult to quantify side effects.² 

Retinol vs. bakuchiol: which should I use?

Both retinol and bakuchiol improve skin elasticity, strength, and brightness and decrease the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, but which compound someone should use is a personal choice. Below there’s a table with all the important characteristics of both products, which might facilitate your decisions.^1,2,3,6

Please consider that bakuchiol has been introduced in the skin care industry as an alternative to retinol relatively recently, so more research on people, not only in vitro, is still needed.

Summary

Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is a quite popular ingredient in skin care to treat acne, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and improve skin texture and tone. Despite this, the component can be quite harsh if you have sensitive skin, and you can notice redness, skin peel or irritation after using it. Moreover, it’s photosensitive, so you should always wear sunscreen to avoid sunburn. Recently, bakuchiol, a plant extract,  has become popular in the cosmetic industry due to its similar actions to retinol like slowing down ageing signs. This compound is more gentle than retinol, making it a good alternative for those with sensitive skin. However, whilst it’s clear that this botanical agent has many benefits for the skin, the majority of research done is in vitro, so more studies in vivo are needed. 

FAQ’s

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

Yes, it is. Studies have shown that bakuchiol is comparable to the vitamin A derivative in decreasing ageing signs. In addition, bakuchiol also has antioxidative effects, and it is also tolerated better by the skin, inducing fewer side effects.^6,7  

Is it OK to use bakuchiol every day?

Yes, you should be able to incorporate it into your skincare routine in the morning or at night. However, if you’re trying it for the first time, apply a small amount on the back of your hand and wait a few hours to see if you have any adverse reactions. You can consult a dermatologist for more advice and information.

Can bakuchiol replace retinol?

While bakuchiol has many benefits and may be a better option for sensitive skin, it’s still an emerging alternative, and it may not tackle all the issues that retinol does. It’s up to you which one you want to use, see what works better for you.

After how long does bakuchiol work?

You might notice results after applying it once a day for 12 weeks.