What Is Hair Dye Allergy

  • Rania Abbas Bachelor's degree, Biomedical Sciences, General, University of Westminster
  • Tram Anh Nguyen Lab Technician Placement Student, BSc, Chemistry with Cosmetic Sciencer, University of Reading, UK

Hair dyeing is a universal means of self-expression, allowing individuals to change into captivating new looks by transforming the colour of their hair. While this practice is beloved by many around the world, it may , unfortunately, evolve into a painful ordeal for some, due to hair dye allergies.

There are various types of hair dyes which include temporary, semi-permanent, permanent, henna, and natural options. Understanding the differences between these types can help individuals make informed choices and reduce the risk of allergic reactions. 

Causes of hair dye allergy

Paraphenylenediamine (PPD), an ingredient in permanent and oxidative hair dyes that produces a natural look and can be shampooed or permed without losing its colour,  is the chemical in hair dyes that is frequently responsible for allergic responses. For PPD to turn into a dye, it needs to be partially oxidised. PPD concentration in hair colour products is higher in darker shades than that in lighter shades. The following labels should be noticed when purchasing hair dye because of different varieties of PPD:

  • phenylenediamine
  • paraphenylenediamine
  • PPD
  • PPDA
  • p-diaminobenzene
  • p-phenylenediamine
  • 4-phenylenediamine
  • 4-aminoaniline
  • 1,4-diaminobenzene
  • 1,4-benzenediamine

There are also other chemicals which also cause allergic reactions these include: ammonia, resorcinol and peroxide.1

  1. Sensitivity to Allergens: There are many individuals who are more prone to developing allergies than others,  including  hair dye.
  1. Genetic Predisposition: Genetic factors can play a role in determining an individual's susceptibility to allergies, including those related to hair dye.
  1. Previous Allergic Reactions: Individuals with a history of allergic reactions to hair dye or other products may be at a higher risk.2

Signs and symptoms of hair dye allergy

Skin Reactions: allergic responses often surface as mild skin symptoms, such as itching, redness, swelling, and rashes - known as dermatitis. These reactions primarily affect areas such as the scalp, face, or neck.

Respiratory Symptoms: Inhaling allergenic particles during the hair dyeing process can lead to symptoms. These may include wheezing, coughing and difficulty breathing.

Allergic reactions to PPD may appear within 48 hours after exposure or immediately. It is important to note that with repeated use, these symptoms may develop quickly and become more severe.

It is worth highlighting that PPD has the potential to trigger anaphylaxis(a severe allergic reaction that can be life threatening), which include all the skin and respiratory reactions, specifically the swelling will occur in the throat and tongue as well as vomiting or nausea. Additionally, even mild initial symptoms can escalate rapidly underscoring the need for attention. 

Therefore it is crucial to seek assistance if you observe any progression, worsening of symptoms, or if they become severe.3

Diagnosis of hair dye allergy

One way to identify allergies, including PPD allergies, is by patch testing. Patch testing is done in two different ways: covered and uncovered. Customers that are encouraged to employ the uncovered method prior to using hair dye should be left for 48 to 72 hours, which is how the two differ from one another. The covered method is used to identify PPD sensitivity and is used by dermatologists and allergy specialists. Testing instructions should be included on every box of hair dye. It should be remembered, however, that testing hair colours may produce a primary allergic reaction to it, and allergies may also be brought on by preservatives and scents. Itchy contact dermatitis is possible due to the alkaline makeup of the hair treatment.4

 If you are allergic to PPD, What else can you be allergic to?

If you are allergic to PPD there is a possibility that you may also experience reactions to substances in medications. This phenomenon happens because one substance has a similar structure to another substance, which is called cross reactivity. Here are the substances you need to be mindful of:

Benzocaine, used in various remedies for earaches, toothaches, mouth ulcers, sore gums, and sore throats.

Procaine, a local anaesthetic that is mostly utilised

Para-aminosalicylic acid, a tuberculosis-specific antibiotic

Sulphonamides, which are utilised as antibiotics

Hydrochlorothiazide, used to treat disorders like fluid retention and high blood pressure5

Management and treatment

Individuals who have been diagnosed with a hair dye allergy should take significant precautions, such as terminating and avoiding specific hair dyes that have caused an allergic reaction, as well as any hair dye that contains any type of PPD. Individuals may instead use henna, but be sure to double-check for black henna as most include PPD. Furthermore, semi-permanent dyes are appropriate but must be laboratory confirmed to be free of chemical additives, and hair dyes that use in para-toulenediamine sulphate (PTDS) instead of PPD, are tolerated by around 50% of people. However, a patch test is recommended. Furthermore, seeking assistance from dermatologists or allergists is critical, as they can provide specialised advice and a variety of treatment to effectively manage the allergy.

There are a few things that may be done at home if you have a severe response to hair dye, such as dermatitis. To begin, quickly rinse out the pigment with warm water and soapless shampoo. If potassium permanganate in a 1:5000 solution is available, use it to fully oxidise the PPD, which causes allergic reactions when only partially oxidised. Apply a topical corticosteroid, preferably a water-soluble corticosteroid cream, or CLOBEX-containing shampoo. A 2% hydrogen peroxide solution should be used. Both of these will relax and alleviate the crust on the head, and the usage of cold olive oil and lime will relax and ease the tight scalp. To relieve skin inflammation and itching, take an antihistamine such as Benadryl orally.4

Prevention

To proactively prevent these reactions, it's crucial to take certain preventive measures. First and foremost, always conduct a patch test before using any hair colour. This initial step is of utmost importance as it helps individuals become aware of potential allergies or sensitivities that may arise upon contact with the dye. Additionally, it's essential to meticulously review the labels of hair colour products to identify and avoid any ingredients that could trigger an adverse response.

It's important to note that the term 'natural' on hair dye labels doesn't necessarily guarantee safety, as some natural ingredients can still cause allergic reactions. For those with a history of allergies or heightened sensitivities, considering comprehensive allergy testing is a key precautionary measure. This approach can effectively pinpoint potential triggers, providing valuable insights into how your body may react to hair dye or its components.

Furthermore, for the sake of safety, it's advisable to entrust the task of colouring your hair to skilled professionals. They possess the expertise to ensure that your hair colour application is secure and effective, minimising potential risks. Additionally, these professionals can offer tailored guidance on safe hair colouring alternatives, taking into account your medical background and any known allergies. This ensures that your hair colouring experience prioritises both safety and your specific needs, ultimately resulting in a more secure and comfortable process.3

Real-Life experiences

Kerry Owusu's hair dying experience became a hair-raising ordeal in 2017 when she went to a local hairdresser to change her hair colour to a rich chocolate brown. Everything appeared normal at first, but as soon as the colour was applied, her head and scalp began to itch horribly. She did not pay much attention at first, but the itching became increasingly severe. Kerry's companion, Kerry's sister, was taken aback by the abrupt shift in her appearance. Kerry's face swelled to more than four times its normal size in just two days, causing her own children unable to identify her. In pain, she rushed to her local hospital, where she was admitted for a 24-hour stay and given antibiotics and antihistamines to manage the allergic reaction. Her bodily symptoms subsided over the course of a week, but she was left with persistent red markings that served as a haunting reminder of her horrific event.

This real-life account serves as a stark reminder of the rare but severe allergic reactions that can stem from hair dye use. It underscores the need for caution and heightened awareness when using hair dyes, and, perhaps most importantly, highlights the critical importance of seeking immediate medical attention if you experience symptoms like itching or blisters within 24 hours of colouring your hair. Kerry's story also emphasises the value of patch testing, even when hairstylists may suggest otherwise, to avoid the possibility of enduring such a distressing allergic reaction. In essence, her experience serves as a powerful lesson on the paramount importance of prioritising safety and well-being when deciding to change one's hair color.6

Summary

Hair dyeing is a form of self-expression, but it can be painful for some due to allergies. Various types of dyes exist, such as temporary, semi-permanent, permanent, henna, and natural options, each with unique properties. Allergies are often triggered by compounds like paraphenylenediamine (PPD), ammonia, resorcinol, and peroxide, causing skin reactions (itching, redness, swelling, rashes) and respiratory issues (asthma, coughing, shortness of breath). PPD allergies can worsen rapidly and lead to anaphylaxis.

Diagnosis involves patch and allergy testing. PPD allergies may cross-react with certain medications. Managing allergies entails avoiding triggers, considering alternatives, and seeking professional advice. Home remedies can help, but medical guidance is crucial. Prevention includes patch tests, label scrutiny, allergy tests, and professional hair coloring. Real-life experiences, like Kerry Owusu's allergic reaction, underscore the paramount importance of caution and immediate medical attention when dealing with hair dye allergies. This emphasises the value of patch testing as a proactive safety measure in the world of hair dyeing.

References

This content is purely informational and isn’t medical guidance. It shouldn’t replace professional medical counsel. Always consult your physician regarding treatment risks and benefits. See our editorial standards for more details.

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Rania Abbas

Bachelor's degree, Biomedical Sciences, General, University of Westminster

Drawing upon a background in Biomedical Science and completion of a PGCE, I am a seasoned writer committed to captivating crafting content. With a passion for informing, inspiring, and entertaining readers, I bring a wealth of experience and expertise to every piece. Whether unravelling the complexities of technology, exploring the wonders of science, or delving into the realms of literature, I am dedicated to delivering articles of the highest quality.

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